Climb the Seven Summits: South America’s Aconcagua

A Closer Look at How to Prepare for and Climb Mount Aconcagua

When it comes to the Seven Summits, Mount Aconcagua in South America is often the one that beckons both seasoned mountaineers and ambitious adventurers alike. Known as the highest peak outside of Asian Himalaya, the elevation of Aconcagua stands at an impressive 6,959 meters (22,831 feet) above sea level, making it the second-highest of the Seven Summit challenge. But while its elevation might be daunting, it’s actually a somewhat manageable mountaineering climb. With the right experience, training, and preparation, you might be able to find yourself standing on top of South America. Let’s break down how you can train, plan, and climb this colossal peak.

The Seven Summit Challenge and Aconcagua’s Role

For those unfamiliar with the Seven Summit challenge, it involves summiting the highest peak on each of the seven continents. Completing this feat is no small task, and Aconcagua holds a unique place on this list, not only because of its elevation but also due to the relatively non-technical nature of its most popular routes. However, don’t mistake “non-technical” for easy. The extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and physical demands of the climb make thorough preparation essential.

Popular Routes to Climb Mount Aconcagua

Mount Aconcagua offers a variety of routes to suit different skill levels and ambitions. The two most popular routes are the Normal Route and the Polish Glacier Traverse.

    1. Normal Route: The Normal Route is the most common path taken by climbers. It is less technical but requires significant stamina and altitude tolerance. This route typically takes about 18-20 days to complete, including acclimatization days. Climbers usually camp at Plaza de Mulas (4,370m) and Nido de Cóndores (5,570m) before making their summit push.
    2. Polish Glacier Traverse: The Polish Glacier Traverse is a bit more challenging and demands some basic mountaineering skills, particularly on the upper sections where snow and ice can be present. The route takes a slightly different path, adding a more remote and adventurous feel to the climb.

Experience and Expectations: What Mount Aconcagua Will Require of You

Aconcagua is a progression mountain, often underestimated by those who think it’s ‘just’ a step up from Kilimanjaro. It’s not. And one of the reasons is due to its more arid, dry climate, plus location far away from the equator, compounding the impact of the altitude. At a high level, here’s what you need to know:

Experience

    • Cramponing Skills: Cramponing skills are essential. You should be comfortable on steep, icy terrain.
    • Self-Arrest Technique: You will need to know how to use an ice axe and self-arrest technique to stop yourself in a slide.

    • Pack Weight: Be ready to carry a 40-50 pound (18-23kg) pack for multiple days in a row on mountainous, glacial terrain.

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What to Expect

    • Physical Challenge: Aconcagua is a true test of physical fitness. Many climbers say it’s the hardest thing they’ve ever done. More on this below.
    • Hydration and Nutrition: Master the art of hydration and nutrition prep because these will make or break your climb. Consult with your guiding service on this point.

    • Mental Fortitude: Expect things to go wrong. Weather, altitude, and unforeseen circumstances will test your resilience. Breathwork training gives a helping hand in this as well.

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Training for Aconcagua: Fitness, Endurance, and Breathwork

When it comes to Aconcagua, your training needs to be as serious as the mountain itself. You’ll need more than just a basic fitness routine; you’ll need a comprehensive program that builds strength, endurance, and high-altitude readiness (consider checking out the great Lisa Thompson and her company Alpine Athletics). And let’s not forget about your breathing—something we at Recal take seriously, of course. But for starters, here’s a list of things you should consider:

1. Endurance Training:

You’ll be trekking for hours each day with a heavy pack on your back. Therefore, building up your endurance is key. Focus on long hikes with elevation gain, stair climbing with a weighted pack, and steady-state cardio sessions like running, cycling, or swimming. Aim to train at least 4-5 times a week for several months leading up to your expedition (but again, you might consider working with a trusted coach for your training).

2. Strength Training:

Strength training should target your legs, core, and upper body. Exercises like squats, lunges, deadlifts, and planks will build the muscle endurance needed to carry you and your gear up the mountain. Don’t forget about your shoulders and back, as they’ll bear the brunt of your pack.

3. Altitude Training:

Acclimatization is one of the most critical aspects of climbing Mount Aconcagua. If possible, incorporate hikes or climbs at higher elevations to prepare your body for the reduced oxygen levels. You might also consider using an air resistance mask (like the SportsMask from Oxygen Advantage) during cardio sessions to build respiratory muscle strength and train your CO2 tolerance (to feel less breathless on the Mount Aconcagua)

4. Breathwork Training:

At Recal, we emphasize  Breathwork Training to build stamina and endurance, especially for high-altitude climbs like Aconcagua. Breathing exercises can significantly improve your respiratory efficiency, which is crucial at high altitudes. Our program focuses on exercises that strengthen your diaphragm and intercostal muscles, enhance oxygen exchange, and boost your overall VO2 max. Our program is designed to improve oxygen levels in your blood and help you perform better under the hypoxic conditions you’ll encounter.

Watch now to elevate your travel! Learn How High Altitude Breathwork Training Works | from Recal Travel

Specific Exercises:

    • Controlled Nasal Breathing: Train yourself to breathe through your nose during strenuous activity. This increases CO2 tolerance and helps you manage your breath better at altitude.
    • Diaphragmatic Breathing: Focus on deep belly breathing to fully engage your diaphragm, which is crucial for efficient oxygen exchange.
    • High Altitude Simulation (Hypoxic-Hypercapnic) Training: Simulate high-altitude conditions by practicing breath-hold + movement exercises. This will condition your body to perform better under lower oxygen levels. You can learn more about the research on this here.

By incorporating these exercises, you’ll build the respiratory muscle strength needed to thrive at altitude, giving you a leg up when the air gets thin on Aconcagua. Again, the elevation of Aconcagua is 6,959 meters – that means with each breath, you’ll be getting only 43% of the oxygen compared to that of Sea Level. If you’re curious to dive more into the existing research and how breathwork training can increase your VO2 max, hemoglobin concentration, and improve your oxygen saturation at altitude, check out our previous blog post here.

The Importance of Planning Your Expedition

A lot goes into planning your expedition to climb Mount Aconcagua; we’re not going to dive into ALL of the details of planning, but here is some high-level things to consider:

    1. Select a Guide Service
      While Aconcagua can be climbed without technical skills, depending on the route you choose, it’s highly recommended to go with a reputable guide service. They provide the necessary logistics, support, and expertise, which can be the difference between success and turning back. Consider the best: Grajales Expeditions, a well-established, family-owned Argentine outfitter specializing in guided expeditions on Mount Aconcagua. They are one of the oldest and most reputable companies operating on the mountain. If you want to learn more about them, contact us, and we’ll make an introduction for you to their team.
    2. Get the Right Gear
      The conditions on Aconcagua can be brutal. Make sure you have high-quality, cold-weather gear, down jacket, and appropriate mountaineering boots. We won’t go into details here, but be sure to research and consult with the right people on this one! Make a checklist of what you’re bringing vs what your guide service provides.
    3. Acclimatization
      If you’re using a guide service, this will be a primary consideration. However, you Allow extra days in your itinerary for acclimatization. This means staying at lower camps for additional days and possibly doing side hikes to higher altitudes before returning to sleep lower.

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Final Thoughts

Climbing Mount Aconcagua is a monumental achievement that requires dedication, preparation, and a bit of grit. By focusing on your fitness, carefully planning your expedition, and utilizing advanced techniques like breathwork training, you can maximize your chances of summiting South America’s highest peak. Whether you’re aiming to complete the Seven Summit challenge or simply looking for your next big adventure, Aconcagua awaits those brave enough to take on its heights.